As someone who is perpetually cold, lying on a heated bed and being rubbed with smooth, hot volcanic stones is sheer bliss. Surrounded by the heady scents of eucalyptus and lavender, I relax to the calming soundtrack and embrace the Sea and Senses – Hot Stones Massage experience. Silky rocks glide over my normally freezing feet before tackling my upper body, dealing with some gnarly tension in my shoulders. And just like that, 60 minutes are over, and I don’t want to move.
But there’s lots to do in and around Headlam Hall (headlamhall.co.uk), a family-owned rural retreat nine miles west of Darlington and I’m eager to take advantage of the spa facilities, which include a 15m swimming pool, steam room, sauna and an outdoor hydrotherapy spa pool. Use of the purpose-built spa (located 50m from the main house) is included in my Winter Escape offer: two nights dinner, bed and breakfast and a complimentary cream tea (spa treatments come at an additional cost). With over 300 spa members, day guests and residents able to access the amenities, it’s advisable to book two-hour time slots at the spa in advance of your stay to avoid disappointment. But although it’s the first weekend in December and all 38 bedrooms are occupied, at 8 am and 7 pm my husband and I have the spa to ourselves.
Suitably revived, I am grateful to have opted for one of the seven spa bedrooms (rooms are also available in the renovated Main Hall, Coach House and Mews) and grab the lift to the first floor in the dressing gown and flip-flops provided as Storm Darragh rages around the building rattling the glass panes of our balcony door. Spacious and modern, the room has a super-king-sized bed, desk and chair and Wi-Fi access, which worked well in the bedroom but was a bit patchy in the main hall. On account of the weather and it being pitch black by 4:30pm, we don’t venture onto the balcony for pre-dinner drinks. Instead, taking a brolly from the door stand, we scuttle over to the main hall, give the giant door a hefty push and feel like we have stepped back in time.
With fires roaring and Christmas tree lights twinkling, a glass of Lyme Bay Brut Reserve kicks off the proceedings and we leisurely peruse the menu, imagining the hall in its former glory. Built in the early 17th century, the original oak fireplace remains a central feature and wooden seats with tartan and tweed upholstered cushions create intimate nooks. In the dimly lit lounge, comfy sofas and armchairs, tapestry rugs, panelled walls, brass candlesticks and paintings depicting rural life accentuate the country home setting. But it hasn’t always been so grand.
After purchasing the dilapidated property and its 200 acres in 1977, it’s taken decades for local farmers John and Ann Robinson to develop the buildings into a luxury hideaway. Today at Headlam Hall, nestled in the Teesdale countryside, you’ll find a 9-hole golf course, tennis courts and a four-acre walled garden. Sadly, the weather didn’t play ball on our visit, so we were thankful for the spa and the cosiness of the hall.
Time has slowed and I’m about ready to curl up on the sofa when our table is ready. Ushered to The Orangery, a conservatory-styled dining room, it’s a relatively informal affair. The dress code is smart casual, but children under the age of seven need to vacate by 7:30pm and while dogs are warmly welcomed at the hotel, if they are joining diners, they’ll be seated in the Library Bar. Drawing heavily on local produce, including vegetables from the kitchen garden, a modern British menu offers plenty of choice, with daily specials and an extensive wine list. To start, try the black pudding and wood pigeon salad and follow with the venison and sausage roll. Portion sizes are good but leave you able to squeeze in a third course with local cheeses such as Bishop Blue and Northumberland Nettle (a cow’s cheese made with nettles) a speciality. Dinner is served between 6pm and 9pm.
Before returning for a hearty breakfast in the conservatory, I venture out for a run following some of the walking trails suggested by the in-room’s plush guide. Route lengths vary from three to six miles along country roads and public footpaths across fields, with accompanying detailed instructions. With the wind still howling, horizontal rain and tree branches scattered across the path, I do a quick three-mile loop and finish off with a swim back at the spa, eat and head nine miles to Barnard Castle to visit The Bowes Museum (thebowesmuseum.org.uk).
Built by John and Josephine Bowes in the 19th century, the impressive purpose-built museum designed by Frenchman Jules Pellechet, houses a huge legacy art collection of over 15,000 items curated by the couple over a ten-year period. Through 22 galleries you’ll find an extraordinary collection of porcelain, silver, textiles, ceramics and artworks. For the museum’s most expensive and star attraction, head to the Green Room at 2pm to see a 250-year-old mechanical silver swan in action. An annual membership (which you can buy at the door) is cheaper than a day ticket and allows unlimited return visits over the 12 months. It’s a sensible option if you can return, given the vast scale of exhibits. Plan your visit to coincide with lunch or coffee and cake at Café Bowes.
The Bowes Museum is just one of a list of local attractions highlighted on the hotel’s website and before we head home, we drive 4 miles to Raby Castle (raby.co.uk) to blow away the cobwebs with a gusty walk in the Deer Park. Privately owned by Lord and Lady Barnard, an ambitious restoration and refurbishment of several historic buildings and gardens completed in 2024 delivers a top-class visitor experience. Redundant buildings have been brought back to life as indoor event spaces, cafes and a high-quality gift shop. For younger visitors, an outdoor adventure park features tunnels, turrets, slides, walkways and interactive games to entertain for hours. On selected dates from November to January, an Enchanted Christmas Trail has been created in the forest with tickets available to book online. Although the castle itself is closed through the winter months, the Walled Gardens, 200-acre Deer Park, shop and two cafes are open daily from 10 am to 4 pm. Access to the Walled Garden and Deer Park costs £12 per adult.
After strolling through the Deer Park and coming up close to some of the estates impressive red and fallow deer, we wander through the creatively landscaped gardens and charming buildings, barista coffee in hand, soaking up the buzzing vibe. With Christmas around the corner, families are choosing their Raby grown Christmas tree (a recycling service is offered from 2nd – 9th January), engaging in some Christmas shopping, spilling out of a forest adventure into the café or simply enjoying the fresh air in an amazing location. We’d love to linger longer among the fairy lights and Christmas tunes, but reluctantly we hit the road rested, relaxed and refreshed by the warm Teesdale hospitality.